La Cruz to Bahia Chamela 2/1/14

La Cruz to Bahia Chamela ( 19.32 N x 105.07 W) 96 miles 14 hours planned

Chamela is the first real anchorage south of Banderas Bay.  There is one noted stopover just a few miles south of Cabo Corrientes, Inpala Cove.  Guide books say marginal protection and room for only a handful of boats.   Planning our trip around Cabo Corrientes (Known as the “Point Conception” of the Gold Coast) requires passage early in the morning to minimize the interaction of the wind and waves brought about by this abrupt change in the coastline.  Since we will pass Inpala early on our journey and mid morning we will not risk stopping since we don’t anticipate needing rest.

CABO CORRIENTES

To shorten the early morning activity and as a courtesy to our marina neighbors we anchored out at La Cruz the night before our trip.  It takes about half the time to get underway from  anchor as compared to the dock with no shore cord, lines, fenders etc to store and we are a few hundred yards into our trip.   Also gives a chance to run the boat after time in the slip and check for any issues that might delay the trip. 

We are traveling with Salacia, a N40 Captained by Neil and Dianna who we met on the FUBAR trip south.  The N40 is about a ¾ to a full knot slower than us at cruise.  Does not sound like much but 6.5 kts vs. 7.5 kts over a 100 mile run is 12-15 miles separation on arrival if we start together.  For WORKNOT its easy to slow down to 7 kts and save about 20% in fuel burn.  In good seas we don’t mind the slower pace.  In heavy seas we likely would need to slow but then so would Salacia. 

NORDHAVN 40 SALACIA

Planned departure was 4 AM but Mary and I both were anxious to get to sea and we caught a glimpse of Salacia underway at 3 AM.  By 3:30 AM we were also underway. 

We do lots of sunset pictures but the sunrise can also be spectacular.  This is just south of Cabo Corrientes.

THE SUN ALSO RISES 

Cabo Corrientes lived up to its reputation, arriving just at sun up we were greeted by confused seas and winds in the low 20 knot range.  Lumpy but not uncomfortable and not dangerous.  Just a gentle reminder we are at sea and we really are ALL in small boats.  After clearing the point by 5 miles we turned south and the seas were quickly on our stern quarter.  4-6 miles further south things smoothed out, winds dropped to under 10 kts.  Clear and warm, we saw plenty of dolphins and a few birds working bait fish.  Dolphins like to play in the bow wave and we had more than a dozen from time to time splashing along and crisscrossing in front of our bow. 

I was off watch and sleeping in the pilot house watch berth at 2:15pm while Mary had the helm.  WORKNOT was following the course laid out on our plotter directly coupled to the autopilot.  We are gaining experience with this tool and still on the learning curve.  This system will take us waypoint by waypoint along a course, asking to turn at each waypoint and keeping the boat on track within 50 feet in settled conditions and rarely more than 200 feet of the ideal course in heavy weather.  If you want to modify the course while underway it’s a little complicated and not overly intuitive.  Mary needed to move a waypoint away from shore to improve our course and in the process reversed the course.  WORKNOT dutifully turned 180 degrees, directly into the wind and oncoming seas.  The change in motion along with spray on the windshield woke me from a deep sleep in a panic.  A quick scan on the radar confirmed we were not near land, in deep water but it took me few moments to figure out what was happening.  Salacia called to see if we were fishing or just lost our minds or at least sense of direction.  Mary fessed up to autopilot mis-management and we had something for the log book. 

We quickly returned to our steady course but sleeping for me was over. 

Fishing was slow, we caught a single Bonita but we remain hopeful for a repeat of our success on the FUBAR.  The freezer is getting low and we will keep fishing in hopes of tuna or Mahi Mahi. 

Arrived in Chamela at 5:20 PM.   Rocky point to the north and two rocky islands to the south. 

CHAMELA ANCHORAGE

BOX SCORE

MILES 96

FUEL 60 gallons

HOURS 14

FISH 1

We woke to find this Mexican Navy boat anchored near our stern. Comforting to know the are “out there” if needed. 

MEXICAN NAVY ON PATROL 

Our trip ashore with Neil and Dianna was short as a tour of the “town” took about an hour.  The town has a motel, beach hotel, trailer park (actuall called “The Trailer Park”).  Looks like a great place to hide out.  Several small tiendas, (small family run grocery stores) and a few clothing shops.  Not much else other than half a dozen palapa and beach side resturants.   The school is the largest building in the town.

Farther south there are several exclusive private resorts and some very large homes on the waterfront.  A real estate trailer is set up with lots available for building and development.  In the US this view would be priceless, here about $100k US asking price.  We took a dinghy ride around the bay, about 4 miles long with two major islands and many smaller rocky outcroppings.   A few additional anchorages are available but they are small and unprotected from swell wrapping around the point.

BEACH FRONT PROPERTY AVAILABLE

Neil, Dianna and Chewy, Keela’s new best friend.

Mary and I went to town early in search of some supplies and to take Keela for a walk.  Just as we returned to the beach a panga landed and they were off loading fish.  In very poor Spanglish, we convinced them to sell us one of the fish.  As usual, a teen ager came along who spoke English and saved us.  The kids seem to all have some English capability.  Maybe its U-Tube or the net.     $200 pesos /$15 US we bought a Red Snapper.  Not sure what we had until after the transaction but  we quickly decided the price was right for about 3.5 kilos / 7.5 lbs. of fish.  Mary pan seared it and made a great dinner for 4 of us. 

MARY WITH THE CATCH OF THE DAY 

Next Stop is Bahia Tenacatita (19.15N x 105.51 W) 32 Miles south

PUNTA MITA 1/9/14

Beginning to get marina fever and need a change of scenery.   We backtracked to Punta de Mita 20.45.9 x 105.31W.   This fairly well protected anchorage is the first on the North end of Banderas Bay.  Four Seasons has resort on the point featuring an 18 hole golf course and St Regis also has a very upscale resort on the same point.  Surfing is popular on the point and within sight of the anchorage.  

We anchored in 27 feet of water over a sand bottom.  Could almost see the anchor early in the mornings when calm conditions prevailed.  Felt great to get back on the hook but the afternoon swell wrapped around the point and made for a rolly anchorage well into the night.  Deployed our “flopper stopper” on one side and then both to improve the conditions.  They helped but when the boat rolled aggressively something in the top of my mast was moving just enough to make me nervous. 

Flopper stoppers are hinged plates that hang off of fixed poles on the side of the boat.  When the boat rolls to the side with the flopper stopper the plate hinge folds from the water pressure and when the boat rolls back the plate opens to present the entire plate surface area to horizontal to the water.  A lot of forces is required to pull the plate upward and this reduces the roll on the boat.  Same for the opposite side.  The roll reduction is only available when anchored with our arrangement.

 These a connected to the end of the line going into the water. One on each side.

Sea Fox joined us for a few nights and we go some good pics of both boats on the hook.

Landing a dinghy on the beach at Punta de Mita gave us some time to practice our skills with our smaller dinghy.   The plan was to use it for shore landings since it is light and only has a 2 HP engine.  Many people us “dinghy wheels”  to give them some help in pulling the dinghy onshore.  We do not have them thinking we can just pickup the dinghy on shore.  This odd looking combination is common in Mexico and not many other places.   

On my first attempt getting ashore was OK but on exit discovered the 2 HP motor did not have the power to turn or run straight with me sitting on the side of the dinghy.  So, after timing the waves just right, pushing out and jumping on the side, starting the motor I turned in a circle and ran straight up on the shore again.  Only a few people watching as I got soaked, filled the boat with water but did not turn it over.   Next attempt I got fully into the boat and managed a somewhat graceful exit.  

We ate at several of the beach Palapas and the food was good and plentiful.  One slight negative was the constant attempts of the local peddlers to sell most anything to the diners.   From beautiful blouses and skirts to a bottle opener cleverly made to look like a seahorse.  We caved on one item and got this.  The guy’s approach was very original and he was persistent but not pushy.  I have a great deal of respect for a salesman who can master this skill.

  

Handmade while we ate dinner

Now if we just get Keela to wear it.......

Mantenchen Bay to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle 12/21/13

Mantenchen Bay to La Cruz:  12/21/13 

Our departure (7:00am) was uneventful and the trip was very pleasant.  We departed expecting to make it into the harbor as sunset but a longline encounter and strong currents near the entrance to Banderas Bay delayed us until dark. 

Lots of whales in Banderas Bay but we did not get good pictures.  Our camera with a good zoom is very slow and every time we saw a good whale shot it was gone by the time the camera focused and took the picture.   Not sure there is a way to improve it. 

Entering La Cruz at night, first time, after a day at sea is bad seamanship.  The winds were settled and both our charts and radar agreed on the channel and entrance.  All the background lights near most harbors make reading the markers a real challenge and this was no different.  Carefully we picked our way through the anchored boats and buoys to find the well lit harbor entrance.  

We had a slip assignment and talked to the harbor on the VHF radio to confirm.  Down the fairway we went to the slip we were assigned only to find we could not fit next to the sailboat sharing the double slip.   So, in the dark, with lots of boats sticking out of their slips into the fairway we backed up, got a new slip assignment and made the landing.  With little wind this worked out in our favor and our digital short range radar actually showed the fairway and slips in detail.  The older long range traditional pulse radar has a dead zone near the vessel that grows as the range grows.  It’s blind within 30-75 feet of the boat.  We have both and again, glad technology is making our journey safer and easier.  

Hi Definition Radar on 300' Range in harbor (Slips next to us are empty and large yacht in front of us) 

La Cruz de Haunacaxtle

One of the many things we are learning is there really is no “plan”.  One of our favorite boat names belongs to a N57 “NO PLANS”.  We expected to stay in La Cruz a few days then move to Paradise Village just east of Puerto Vallarta.  Most people we met felt Paradise Village was the best choice in Banderas Bay.  For us we felt more at home and comfortable in La Cruz.  The harbor is run by a professional team, two great gentlemen, both named Jose, were on the docks at all hours ready to get a taxi, recommend a restaurant or anything else to be helpful.  That was their job; they did not do maintenance work or have other obvious duties.  Just be there to support the cruising community. 

The marina provided wifi, a cruisers VIP lounge with much better wifi and a meeting room for seminars and movie night (First run movies on Thursday).  Laundry service was available that brought the clean clothes back to the boat the next day.  Multiple workers were all trying to get the washing, waxing and other work needed to maintain a boat in the tropics.  Prices were very competitive and a fraction of the San Diego costs.  Next to the marina there is a daily fish market and Sunday’s a very large open air market with plenty of local foods and unique items.

The lady in the red hat just out of the picture is a Mexican native who is in her 80’s.  Thought I got her in the picture but the food caught center camera.

La Cruz has a very active community of winter gringos and there are several restaurants that bill themselves as “cruisers havens”.   Pay a small fee and you get wifi, place to sit and “American” food.  Hamburgers, hotdogs and mashed potatoes are popular.  For us we want just the opposite.  Don’t think we have eaten a traditional sandwich for at least 2 months, tortillas, tacos and fish are the main staples.    Rice and beans are available with almost any meal.  The portions are huge and the cost is low.  We have yet to spend over $500 pesos for 2 dinners.  Less than $40US in some very nice restaurants.   Lunch is usually less than $300 pesos for two. $22US. 

This restaurant is built on a cliff side overlooking the marina.  The back wall is a “living wall” of ferns and plants.  The owner met us at the door and saw we were well served.  We celebrated a special birthday for Dennis of Sea Fox with his wife Julie.  They have been cruising for 17 years and the experience they have shared has accelerated our learning curve. 

We got very comfortable in La Cruz and found our way around the area by bus and occasionally taxi.  Bus ride to Mega (very large grocery store and more), WalMart, or the next town (Bucerias) is $8 pesos ($0.65).  Double if you catch the air conditioned bus.  Days consisted of getting up with the sun, mopping the dew off the boat, (keeps it very clean), breakfast and then some errand or task.  That takes us to lunch, walk into La Cruz for a 1 to 2 hour lunch, a nap and then time to make plans for dinner.   Not much excitement for a blog but nice to avoid a schedule or a weekly planner.

Have not worn my watch since November and knowing the day of the week is augmented by looking at my weekly pill case and noticing which slots are empty.  Young readers may not relate but bet my peers do. 

This is not the cruising we expected and with our upcoming trip to Barra Navidad and anchorages in between more cruising and less marina living should liven up the blog.   

Next Posting a trip to Punta Mita in Banderas Bay 

MAZATLAN VISIT ON WORKNOT

Mazatlan is a city of over 400,000 (23.13N x 106.25W) on the Pacific coast of mainland Mexico.  Just south of the Baja Peninsula, Mazatlan is more impacted by the Pacific Ocean than the Sea of Cortez.  Typically, long ocean swells from the south, southwest and warmer weather in the winter than La Paz, Mazatlan is a popular stop for cruisers.  Also the home of Pacifico brewery since 1900.   

We arrived at Marina Mazatlan to find it about 60% occupied and a bit sleepy for the Christmas holiday.  The marina property is located on the east side of a man made circular harbor. 

MARINA MAZATLAN

The economy of Mexico is in recovery and the marinas suffered along with the rest of the business.  Tourism was particularly hard hit in areas depending on the US for clients.  Condos, timeshares, hotels etc. took it on the chin and many are abandoned short of completion.  In the harbor a number of restaurants are shuttered and about one third to half the land around the harbor is vacant. 

We were in good company in Mazatlan, WORNOT continues to be in the middle of the pack of the cruising powerboats.

IN GOOD COMPANY AGAIN

Getting from the marina to the main road includes a trip through a vacant lot covered in construction debris.  Within walking distance from there is a very upscale mall with all the top brands from NY and London.  Inside the mall it’s airy, full of marble and creative stone work.  Patrons are well dressed, polite and spending.   Found a Starbucks and felt right at home.

One interesting find was the small containers found in the concrete parking lot near the Liverpool store in the mall.  Can you guess the purpose?

MYSTERY CONTAINER

They are for cleaning up oil leaks from your car.   Each is filled with oil absorbent material and includes a shovel.  How long would that last in a US mall? 

Getting around Mazatlan is easy using the taxis made from Volkswagen Beetle chassis.  Called Pulmonia taxi,  we took one downtown to see a chapel at the far end of the largest malecon in Mexico.

  The malecon walkway is over 4 miles long.   Our visit to the chapel was interrupted by a major rainstorm.  Mary and I were huddled in a doorway of the chapel when a highvoltage cable arced and dropped to ground at the nearby corner.  The line had been covered in Christmas decorations and the weight from the all the rain was too much.   We cut our trip short and headed for a taxi.

We got to the taxi at the same time as a well dressed Mexican lady.  With broken English and sign language we determined her stop was along the way of our return to the marina.  Off we all went in the pouring rain.  The streets were running up to the curb with rainwater and lots of trash.  Staying dry in the cab w/o door was impossible.  The wiper did not have a chance to keep up with the rain and the inside of the windshield was about as wet at the out side.  Several times the water washed over the floorboard as we turned into the torrent at intersections.  Water was pouring off the flat roofs of the various buildings, occasionally hitting our ride with a 2" or larger stream of water.  Our driver was focused on the fare and he never let up. 

Our stay was short in Mazatlan and we headed South on 12/21/13.  Departing late in the evening we had a 18 hour trip to San Blas in settled weather ahead of us.   We plan to anchor at Mantanchen bay to rest up and sample San Blas. 

Exiting the harbor reminded us of how challenging the entrance had been the first time in. 

NEXT STOP MANTANCHEN BAY 

CROSSING FROM La Paz to MAZATLAN (Mainland Mexico)

At long last it is time for WORKNOT to make the crossing I recently completed aboard SeaFox.  Weather has kept us in La Paz for almost 3 weeks and finally the forecast is for ever improving seas starting on Monday Dec. 16th and getting better each day for the rest of the week.  

As mentioned before, weather dominates cruising in small boats and in open ocean conditions they are all small boats.   Trawlers can’t run from much, we celebrate anytime we overtake something that is moving, and we can’t speed up to get to a port ahead of a storm.  As an example, WORKNOT cruises very comfortably at 8kts.  It’s all related to hull speed and the inability for a displacement vessel to plane.  There is no amount of horsepower that can be added to a displacement hull to make it rise up on plane and run at speed much greater than its natural hull speed.   “Crossing an Ocean Under Power” provides lots of detail on this but simply put the longer the boat the faster but in small increments.  A 50 ft displacement boat is about  a knot faster than a 40 ft boat.   WORKNOT is capable of just under 10 kts under full power but at a terrific fuel penalty, (5 X fuel at 8 kts). Her natural hull speed is about 8 kts.  The formula is (1.23 x sq. root of the water line length). 

Back to the weather, wind is the key to power boat comfort as waves are driven by wind and impacted by current, duration of the wind, fetch and water depth.  Wind dominates this equation.  There a lots of weather sources and I’m learning to use OCEN’s grib file tools via sat phone.  The learning curve is steep for me but found a cruiser who has lots of experience and its beginning to make sense to me.   Here are a couple of samples from the weather forecasts information downloaded to make the decision to cross from La Paz to Mazatlan.  The colors are based on the wind speed key on the left, blue is good.   Red is a bad day at sea for everyone.

SUNDAY Wind Chart

WEDNESDAY Wind Chart

We made the decision to leave on Monday, traveling with Salacia, N40.  Neil and Dianna were part of the FUBAR Fleet group and we all agreed it was of great comfort to look out the window and see another running light at 3 AM.  To make the trip shorter we also decided we would go to Muertos Cove on Monday and leave for Mazatlan on Tuesday morning unless the weather improvements did not arrive.  If it got bad we would wait it out on anchor for a better departure window.

The La Paz cruisers net reported on Monday the price of fuel was going up at the first of the year.  The BAJA peninsula has enjoyed a 6% reduction is sales tax to encourage tourism and activity.  This is being ended by the Mexican govt. at the end of the year.  Mexico is also reducing the subsidy for fuel, raising the price of diesel a few Pesos each month.  We took on 525 gallons at La Paz which delayed our departure for Muertos Cove until just afternoon on Monday.  

Off we went at last on a backtrack trip to Muertos Cove.  We arrived just at dark after a windy ride thru San Lorenzo channel and Cerralvo channel.  The weather was not as predicted and we were pleased to have waited to cross until Tuesday.  My wind alarm was set for 30 kts and it kept alarming and could not figure out how to turn the alarm off.   Reading a software guide in a pitching boat, looking at an instrument overhead is recipe for sea sickness, at least for me.   Finally got it stopped and will read the book in calmer conditions.   Anchor down at 6:48PM (23.59 X 109.49 W).    31.9 gallons of fuel burned 55 miles.  

Next morning we got underway with Salacia at 8am sharp.  Seas were calm but the wind was still in the teens and above the forecast.   We pressed on knowing the forecast was for improving conditions the farther east and longer we went.   The trip is planned at 190 miles and 25 hours.   This is about 45 miles shorter than direct from La Paz and almost 8 hours less making the trip easier for a 2 person crew.

OFF WATCH 

The trip was very uneventful which is a good thing for ocean crossings.   Given all the excitement about “selfies” in the news tried to get on for myself but it did not turn out too well.   

ON WATCH 

Life underway on a crossing takes on a feeling of its own.  We take 3 hours turns at the helm, engine room checks, eat lightly but often and try to rest whenever off watch.  The weather was OK but it was lumpy almost half the way there.   We slowed to keep pace with Salacia saving fuel but adding to the time for the crossing.  The cabin starts off nice and neat but at the end of these trips seems everything we own or at least used during the trip is out on the counter top or stacked in the pilothouse.  Log books, cruise books, multiple binoculars, (tip of the hat to ESW who gave us a great set), cameras, cell phones, ipads, dog toys, dishes etc are all where they were used.   Always good to make port.

APPROACH TO MAZATLAN  

We arrived in Mazatlan ( 23.16.0 x 106.29W) 11AM on Wednesday, 27 hours runtime using 108 gallons of fuel.  Incredible for 190 mile trip moving 70,000 pounds.     The entrance to the harbor is right on shore and you can’t see it until you are firmly committed to the path.  My trip here on Seafox was of great comfort as we headed directly for the rocks in front of the harbor entrance.   After being in open ocean for miles it just seems unnatural to be so close to land.

MAZATLAN ENTRANCE LOOKS EASIER ON THE PLOTTER

NEXT ENTRY MAZATLAN CITY 

EXPLORING LA PAZ

We have been in La Paz Mexico (24.13 N x 110.20 W) for much longer than we planned.    We arrived on November 19  and finally plan to make our escape on Monday December 16^th.   Our next stop is Mazatlan (23.16 N x 106.29 W) on the Mexico mainland.  

La Paz is known as the best provisioning location in the Baja Peninsula and we made our way to a number of the popular shopping sites for cruisers.  There is a very active gringo community here, thousands of Americans either cruise here or have homes here.  Many came for a short visit and never got around to going home.   After our time here it’s easy to understand how it happens.  The local people are very accustomed to a stumbling Gringo trying to explain his wants in broken Spanish or worse.  Several times when lost, a local would try their best to help me find where I was going without being asked.  Club Cruceros (www.ClubCruceros.net) hosts the cruisers net each morning on VHF radio, publishes a very helpful guide with dozens of useful contacts and runs a mail and package delivery service for items from the US.  Add to this warm weather, general cost of living about 1/3 less than San Diego and plentiful restaurants with stunning sunset views on the ocean.   Why leave?

Marina Costa Baja (resort where we are docked) makes it easy with a shuttle bus to town (about 6 miles) 6 times a day and taxis are readily available and the trip is about $8 US if the shuttle is inconvenient.  Our many shopping trips to town gave us a chance to visit major grocery stores, an indoor Mercado (farmers market), Ace hardware, City Club (Sam’s Club knockoff?), Sears, Radio Shack and other well established businesses.  We also found our way to some incredible bakeries where you simply can’t carry $20 worth of pasties.  Since they don’t have any preservatives in the pastries we were forced to eat them all each day and start over. 

One of our trips was to get Keela a trim and haircut.  After some web research Mary decided on a location about a couple of dozen blocks from the Church were the shuttle drops us off.   After a taxi ride to the street corner the driver insisted on parking and walking to the address I gave him.  He then explained to the folks what we wanted and made sure all was going well.   All this for a $10 fare.  As you can see below, no question we were at the right place!

Mary improved our pottery collection at Ibarra Pottery, a historic family run craft shop featuring signed handmade work since 1897.  The items are very light and colorful.

Seafox, one of the Nordhavn 55’s from the FUBAR fleet asked if Mary and I would crew with them from La Paz to Mazatlan.  The 33 hour trip would give us a chance to run a 55 and get to know Julie and Dennis Fox.  They have a long cruising history including the North Atlantic Rally (NAR www.nordhavn.com/rally/voyage/‎).  The night before we were set to leave Mary stepped off a curb and jammed her back.  Worried a 230 mile ocean crossing would make it worse she wisely choose to stay in La Paz. 

Dennis, Julie and I left on board Seafox at sun up with plans to be in Mazatlan 33 hours later.  Weather was very favorable (Seafox was the boat that followed their weather router and avoided the rough ride on the last leg of the FUBAR) as predicted.  The crossing could have been done in a panga with enough fuel.   Traveling with 2 other Nordhavn 55’s  and another 3 Nordhavn’s making the same trip some 6 hours behind us provided lots of comfort and someone to talk with on the dreaded 1-4 AM watch. 

It was a great trip and always a learning experience to travel on an accomplished cruisers boat.  Lots of small tips and tricks to make the voyage safe and a bit easier.  My favorite was a simple egg timer, hand wound to alarm every hour on the hour.   Each time the egg timer rang we logged our position both on paper and electronic charts.  No sleeping thru a watch on Seafox.   The N55 is only 5 feet longer than WORKNOT but is really twice the boat.  The N55 weighs nearly twice as much as the N50, wider beam and much taller giving more protection from breaking seas.   None of this was put to the test in the very settled waters during our trip.  

About half way there we picked up some hitchhikers who would not leave.  At one point there were more than a dozen birds taking a free ride east.  

We did have a small challenge about 20 miles from Mazatlan.  It was mid morning, very clear and calm.  The passage was nearing the end and we were very relaxed when a buoy appeared to port in deep water.   Quickly it determined a long line was dead ahead.  A quick turn to starboard kept us from running over the floating line.  The long line was made up from ¼” polypropylene line (floating) with baited hooks about every 25 feet hanging down about 5 feet.  In Kentucky we would call it a trot line and use it to bottom fish for cat fish.   Poorly marked with clear water bottles every 50 feet or so, it was very hard to see.  After running 5 miles south to try and find the end we gave up and crossed the line using a boat hook to push it down below the stabilizers and prop.  Seafox is rare twin screw N55 and there is plenty to get a line hung up on.  Luck was on our side.   Since the N55 draws 6 feet, we were fortunate it was daylight and settled seas.   A local sport fishing captain told me the long lines are illegal and they routinely cut them.  The longliners are supposed to weight the lines to sink and provide crossing points. 

When we all got settled in Mazatlan Marina,  a dinner was organized at a local outdoor spot.  Getting there required a cab ride and the Mazatlan cabs are unique indeed.  Made from converted Volkswagens, they are closer to dune buggies than cars.   Some have doors; some have roofs but not both in most cases.   The open air ride added to sense of adventure and the weather was warm and food was great.

Next morning we went to Rico’s, located at the Pemex station across from the marina, for breakfast.  Surprisingly, it was great.   Fresh fruit, lattes, French toast, cheese blintz and more.  A real treat.   Soon conversation turned to me getting back to La Paz to retrieve WORKNOT, Mary and Keela.  Much to my surprise and Dennis’s shock, the next ferry ticket was 2 weeks later.  The ferry spokesman suggested I might get a ticket but should not expect a seat if I went to the landing and “found the right ticket agent”.  18 hours on a ferry, without a cabin, let alone a seat was not encouraging.  Flying was the only opportunity to get “home” but no direct flights available.  Found a flight to Guadalajara; spend the night and then an early morning flight to La Paz.  Not sure who was more relieved, Dennis or me.  

Neil and Lane on one of the N55’s we traveled with have a condo overlooking the beach in Mazatlan and invited us to come see the sunset.  They are from the Bay Area and have traveled by boat in Mexico for many years.  Again, great to talk to veteran. 

The trip home was very smooth, the airports were all very clean, the hotel in Guadalajara was about  200 feet from the airport lobby.  Clean, good breakfast and English spoken by the staff.  Aero Mexico flies commuter jets on these routes, all were fairly new, no charge for pillows, checked baggage, blankets or soft drinks.  

Our plan was to cross over to Mazatlan as soon as I got back but the weather had other ideas.  For the next 2 weeks we never got a suitable weather window to cross.  Strong northerly winds blowing down the Sea of Cortez pushed waves up to 8 ft at very short 6-8 second intervals.  Since we are headed mostly east this would put them on our beam.  Uncomfortable at best, dangerous if something breaks on the boat and very tiring for a two person crews since sleeping in that sea condition might not be possible.   So we waited, and waited.  And went to the bakery and waited…..

Nearby is the island of Isla Espiritu Santo.  Uninhabited and pristine, there are dozens of anchorages along the west coast of this island and its neighbors.  We managed to spend a few nights there and took a few pictures to entice you to come see it for yourself.  Fairly well protected from the prevailing North wind, open to a unique La Paz wind called the Coroumel.  It occurs as the Pacific air moves across the Baja penninsula at night creating 15-30 kt winds that help keep La Paz cool in summer and the Isal Espiritu Santo anchorages interesting.  At 7 pm one night the wind picked up from the Southwest  and blew steady until 2 AM.  A bit like San Francisco Bay in the afternoon.  Good news is it gets rid of the nosee'um bugs but makes the anchorage noisy.

We plan to head over to Mazatlan as soon as the weather permits.   La Paz has been fun and a good place to start the unwinding but it’s getting cooler and the locals warn of chilly, windy days with the port closed due to high seas.  Sounds like San Francisco Bay and a good reason to keep going south!