Hoonah and Glacier Bay…..7-28-15

Moving closer to Glacier Bay we stopped in Hoonah, a small 900 person town and home to the largest Tlingit settlement in Southeast Alaska.  It is now on the cruise ship circuit and construction of large dock and shore facility is underway.  We docked at the municipal harbor and found the harbor master friendly and gracious.  Mostly a commercial fishing port, they made room for us and treated us very well.   She took time to explain the map of her city and hand write her favorite spots for us.  The harbormaster dog and Keela got along fine in the office.  

 The town is carving the interior columns and display wall for a new community Tlingit house in Glacier Bay.  All of the work is being done by hand with no power tools touching the wood.  This is a todem about 25 feet long and well over 2 feet in diameter.   The wall behind him is all carved from a single tree.  

We got the “Cruise Ship Special” treatment at a small local restaurant, sausage-eggs-toast $19.95.   I’m sure the locals have another menu as just can’t see a fisherman paying $20 bucks for breakfast and $2.50 for coffee.  

Time had come to change the oil in our genset and get a sample sent off for analysis.  Also took time to change our 24V alternator that takes care of engine start, bow thruster and windlass batteries.  Carry a spare and even though it has the same part number on the box it was a bit different.  After borrowing a torque wrench from a fishboat to remove the pulley nut had to go the library to download enough tech data to apply the replacement alternator.  For the gear heads the new alt was isolated ground and the old one was frame grounded.   Very small difference in the appearance. 

Back underway we headed for Glacier Bay to rendezvous with the Kramer family.  Friends of ours for years we visited them in Vancouver on the way north.  Tom, Fiona and their two kids Aiden and Tiege (10 & 8) joined us for the trip to the glaciers.  WORKNOT has not been that noisy for a long time.  

The kids found a kindred soul in Adam of Antipodes and they played video games and hung out for the next week. 

After an orientation at the ranger station we were cleared to head up into the Glacier Bay National Park.  Passing the narrows at slack tide by luck rather than planning we were greeted by dozens of whales spouting in all directions.   The kids had a blast counting whales and trying to identify the type. 

Our first glacier viewing was at Reid Inlet where we were able to beach a dinghy and walk ashore to tour the area where the glacier melt runs into the water.   Randy took and extended hike and found his dinghy high and dry on return.  He managed to drag it about 50’ back into the water with the help of his crew.  All this occurred in less than 2 hours of shore time.   Notice WORKNOT dinghy FLOATING in the background.

Next morning both boats headed to Johns Hopkins glacier.   This is a true tidal glacier which is calving into the bay at 10-15’ per day.  About every 5-10 minutes you can hear the glacier creaking and growling as stress are relieved and new ones compressed.  

We pushed thru the ice and got to within about ¼ mile of the face.  It took about half an hour to go a few miles but it was worth the effort. 

Things were pretty calm and we decided to transfer Adam to our boat for some kid time.   Twice we had the boats lined up in calm water for the transfer and the glacier calved aggressively.   The first one sent a 3-4 foot wave across the bay and we had to move the boats apart to prevent damage.   Second calving happened just as we got lined up again.   We need Adam to keep going from boat to boat.

This arm of the park does not allow cruise ships to enter the inlet and they “see” the glacier face from about 4 miles away.  Our view was much better!  Only 25 boats a day are allowed in the park and cruise ships count as a boat.   We are very fortunate indeed to get the opportunity. 

Our glacier viewing was not over as we went to Tarr Inlet and viewed the Margerie glacier and the Grand Pacific glacier.

Have many more pics of the Glacier Bay trip but the connection here in Sitka is slow.   No box score as we messed around in Glacier Bay for 4 days with lots of idle time and return trips.   

If you get the chance to come up to this amazing place do it!!!

Juneau and Coots Bay 7/20/15

A couple of rainy days in Juneau along with a day of sunshine.   Juneau is a capital city but you would not know it from our visit.  About 40 miles of roads, including a 4 lane section, are isolated to the area just to the north and south of the city center.  Our docking arrangements were at the transient dock between our friends on Antipodes and a 75’ aluminum fishboat.   Overall length of our part of the dock was about 60 feet.   With lots of help and missing having a stern thruster we got WORKNOT secured to the dock just as the rain stopped. 

WORKNOT was docked about 5 feet behind PACIFIC PREDATOR and about the same distance from ANTIPODES.  As they left the crew of the fishboat made sure they did not have to deal with scratching a cruising boat.  Both young ladies on the boat were working for the summer before returning to college and seemed to be very enthusiastic about life on a fishboat.

We liked Juneau much more than Ketchikan but can’t really say why.   The feel of the city was different even with 4 cruise ships in port and the usual collection of tourist shops.  We met a couple of people on the docks who call Juneau home and they all had good things to say about living there.    We made our way to Walmart thanks to a fisherman we helped get some fuel to on our way north.  LITTLE RED  ran out of fuel about 10 miles south of Juneau and with the help of our fuel can, Antipodes gave him 15 gallons to make it home.  Don't have an easy way to get fuel from my tanks to jug but will remedy that next time I can find a 3 way valve.  The captain Doug, found us in Harris harbor the next day and stopped by to say thanks and offer a ride to get supplies.

Picking up our empty fuel jug “Deadliest Catch” style

Here is LITTLE RED getting fuel transferred.  Doug also shared his favorite fishing spots for halibut and salmon.   They would bear fruit later on…..

Leaving Juneau in the rain we traveled south back down the Gastineau Channel to Stephens Passage.  Along the way another cruise ship was making its way to port to unload well over a thousand passengers for the day.  Trips to the Sawyer Glacier where we just left as well as Mendenhall Glacier a highlight of a trip to Juneau.  Fishing is reported to be very good as we go north and our plan was to fish Skull Island. 

Weather along the way was very calm but rainy and foggy.  Winds were less than 10 knots most of the 15-20 miles to the fishing grounds but as we rounded the corner to Skull Island the wind picked up to 20 knots and it was very cold.  Weather drove us off of the intended fishing spot but we moved across the channel where several other boats we fishing.  Turns out they knew what we did not and finally caught salmon!

The technique is called “mooching”.  Mid sized frozen herring is rigged to rotate when retrieved at a slow speed.   The weighted bait is cut to make it spin and it works.  Lots of excitement as we landed our first salmon.  Really not well prepared for success, we lost the first fish we hooked as the net, gaff etc were not ready for action.  We are learning and next time will have the net, fishbag and crew ready for action. 

With the weather still rainy and overcast we headed to Coots Bay about 20 miles away.  As we moved south again a pod of whales appeared just behind us.  After turning back to see them we were greeted by at least 6 whales feeding near the shore.  The scene was unreal as they repeatedly smacked their tails against the surface, breached and put on a show.  Below are some shots taken by WORKNOT and an incredible set of shots by Randy on ANTIPODES.  A whale breached between us and it was just too close.  Less than 100 feet from us.  See for yourself just how spectacular the day turned out to be.

Here is the scary shot taken by Randy, I was too awestruck to get a shot....

Capping off the outstanding day arrived at Coots Bay anchorage in fog and rain that reduced visibility to less than 1/3 mile.  By the time the anchor was down the rain stopped and the rest of the afternoon and evening were quiet, dry and peaceful.. 

Box Score   7 hours (including fishing and whale watching)  41 miles, 22 gallons……..

Myers Chuck, Wrangell and Anan Bear Reserve 7/15/15

On our way to Wrangell stopped at Myers Chuck and stayed at  the state float.  There are many of these well maintained docks scattered along the way.  Myers Chuck is accessible only by float plane or boat.   Very small community with a few dozen homes.   The bulletin board had an ad for a cabin priced at $95K.   Looked nice, 2 bedroom with a killer view.  Also a local lady was advertising sticky buns.   Gave her a call and next morning she delivered warm, homemade buns to the boat in time for breakfast!   The source of the sticky buns is the two tone roof behind the post office in case you drop by.

Wrangell is a fishing town with large transient docks geared to the fishing fleet but welcoming to cruising boats as well.

Traveled from Wrangell about 20 miles to the Anan Bear Reserve aboard Antipodes.  It was fun to a "guest" aboard another boat and not have any duties.   Permits are required and the number of visitors is very limited.   We anchored about 150 yards offshore and took kayaks to the beach in shifts to allow someone to watch the boat as the anchorage has poor holding.

After a warning about the dangers of bears, meeting a ranger complete with shotgun and being sure not to have any food or other temptations hiked about half a mile to the observatory.   Along the way there was fresh bear "scat" on the trail.   That's a "scat" provider casually walking across the trail we just came in on.....

Anan Bear Reserve delivered the bears as advertised!!

 Just like me this guy can't seem to catch a salmon...

Eagles were also hanging around the stream in hopes of finding so scraps from the bears.

After seeing half a dozen bears we got to walk back along the trail also shared by the bears.  A guide from one of the boats was leaving and we joined him along with his two clients for the walk back.  The guide was armed with a pistol.  Don't really know if it was for show or truly a safety measure.  To add a little excitement the clients kept stopping to pick berries along the way.  It was a very long walk back to the kayak .....

Keela is not happy to be in the rain.....

Box Score 7 hours, 21 gallons, Flood tide most of the way so 62 miles...

Petersburg to Tracy Arm Alaska (Holkham Bay) 7/18/15

Traveling to this stunning location included Stephens Passage as we left Petersburg Alaska.  We only stayed one night in this hardy fishing town.  Known as the Halibut capital of Alaska we found the docks and the small town friendly.  Landing at Petersburg was a flashback to a tough landing at La Paz Mexico over a year ago where the current swept WORKNOT to the dock broadside.  This time experience won out and on the second attempt made a fairly good landing in 3-4 kts of cross current.  The harbor actually had an eddy current going opposite of the arrival current.   No battle scars this time.  

Petersburg is very proud of its Norwegian heritage and the Sons of Norway museum was having some type of show when we arrived.  A school bus load of folks a little older than us were greeted by young girls in full costume as they arrived.   Sorry, we did not have a phone or camera available to get more pictures.  I can just imagine Sig from “Deadliest Catch”  strolling the streets of Petersburg.

The current was on our side as we headed north giving us about 1-2 kts of push almost the entire way to Hoolkham Bay.  Our original plan was to make this trip in two nights but the added speed got us into Tracy Arm Cove just before dinner.  Rain and fog were with us all day but never totally blocking visibility or slowing our pace.  

Entering Holkham Bay requires crossing a bar that shallows from over 300' to just over 40’.  The opening is 1.75 miles wide but navigable at a width of only 0.3 miles.   The channel is marked by two buoys with a note indicating one of them is often carried off its location by icebergs. 

We anchored in Tracy Arm Cove with several other boats, one asked us to move after we had set our anchor-announcing he was 100 ft long and needed more room, and settled in for a quiet evening as the rain had ended and the air was very calm.   About midnight winds picked up and by 1 AM wind was blowing 20-30 kts in sharp gusts.  This is known as a Williwaw wind and it is caused by cold air rushing down the face of the glacier and mountains.  Localized but strong they can reach over 50 kts in some areas.   Added about 75 ft of scope to our anchor and slept in the pilot house to be ready if we moved.  By 3 AM winds had calmed down and WORKNOT was still firmly attached to the bottom by our dependable Rocna anchor.  (If you want to start a dock argument;  just ask any boater which is the best anchor). 

A few of our neighbors at Tracy Arm Cove.

Our friends on Antipodes led the way during the 22 mile trip up Tracy Arm to see the glacier.  We saw some ice early on but things were fairly clear until we got about 4 miles from the split where Tracy Arm branches into the North and South arms leading to the face of the Sawyer Glacier. 

Along the way stunning water falls on both sides of the fjord provide enough water that the normal current flow is always and ebb.

Fog and mist hung low in the air but our trip was not hampered by the low ceiling.  Running in the ice flow with heavy fog would not be possible and we kept a close watch behind us to be sure we did not get closed in.

Several tour boats from Juneau raced ahead of us to the face of the glacier.  Following Antipodes (Steel Hull) took plenty of effort and several times had to push “bergy bits” off the bow to make a path.  Even the small pieces of ice made a terrible sound against the hull. 

The color and shape of the bergs was mesmerizing.  Blue tones and exotic shapes drew your attention from piloting the boat to staring at them in wonderment. 

Finally we made our way to the face of the glacier.  Caught a calving of pieces about the size of the boat but too slow with the camera.

The granite face of the fiord walls is rubbed smooth and towers up to 2,500 ft above us.  Loss of VHF, GPS and satellite communications is normal in some of the areas.  According to the charts the glacier has retreated over half a mile since 1995.   Just 20 years ago the spot we were floating in was on the face of the glacier.  The dashed area was glacier when the chart was drawn...

As you can see we had a very spectacular day.  A few more pictures to better express what we got to see.

Simply amazed........

Keela came to help, in spirit, as I pushed ice away from WORKNOT

Box Score 10 Hours, 40 miles, 21 gallons (VERY slow moving in the ice field) 

Many thanks to Randy, Nancy and Adam on Antipodes for the pictures of WORKNOT...