Ketchikan to Kasaan Bay 7/12/15

Yes Bay to Ketchikan to Kasaan Bay

After a great few days in Yes Bay our trip took us to a quiet anchorage across from Yes Bay on the Revillagigedo Island side of the Behm Channel.  Plans were to anchor at Naha Bay but NaNa was the word.  The head of the bay was steep and narrow with very little room to swing.  Even with settled conditions we did not want to chance it.  The "float" that we hoped would lead us ashore to a lagoon was damaged and not connected to the shore.  The only way to enter the lagoon was by dinghy and with the tide race over 2' we would have to stay in Roosevelt Lagoon for almost 10 hours to have slack tide going in and out.

 The  Navy was conducting testing along the shore and limited access was available to Helm Bay.   We asked for clearance but were directed almost 10 miles out of the way to avoid the test area.  In an 8 Kt boat this is a delay of an hour and a half both into and out of the bay.  

With no luck fishing settled on an anchorage near Moser Bay in a small unidentified bite. It was great with good views, no traffic and little to no wind.  Since WORKNOT was just about an hour and a half to Ketchikan next morning we returned to Ketchikan for some more fishing supplies, groceries and propane.  The day began rainy and it continued to be overcast and drizzly the next few days.

With our errands run (except for the propane) we left early the next morning for Kassan Bay.  A fairly short ride across Clarence Strait.  Winds were blowing against the current and we found ourselves in short, choppy 3-4 ft seas right on the beam.  A reminder that we were in real water after days and days of flat clam seas in the protected parts of Behm Channel.   Our choice for an anchorage was Happy Harbor on Kasaan Island.  Very well protected but only enough water at the entrance to come and go at mid tide or better.  Our entry registered less than 2 ft under the keel but at least we were on a rising tide.  We could escape if we got grounded.  Just off the narrow entrance to the lagoon was a telephone booth.  Like most the phone was missing.  There must be a story to this item being on a small island with no roads or other access other than boat.

Guide books claimed the floats at Kasaan Village, a small native community across from our anchorage were in poor repair and anchoring was marginal.  Much to our surprise we found very nice, new floats with excellent walkways at Kasaan.  There are many of these high quality floats and most are funded by a mixture of state and local agencies.  Alaska has money and seems to be willing to spend it.  Wonder how long this will last at $40/barrel oil? 

The village has an active carver shed and is restoring a native building at the end of a very maintained trail along the shore.

Totems are scattered along the trail and around the small village.   Since it was Sunday we missed the carvers at work but could see some of the craftsmanship they use to build the totems and other articles from native wood. 

No mistaking where you are in Kasaan

Walker Cove to Yes Bay 7/7/15

Walker Cove to Yes Bay 7/7/15

Our circumnavigation of Revillagigedo Island continues as we move from Walker Bay to Yes Bay.

Walker Bay is a few miles north of the famous Punchbowl area which is heavily visited by cruise ship and others from Ketchikan.  

The peaks around Walker Bay are in the 3,000 ft range and snow was still visible on the eastern slopes.   Took the dinghy fishing and even when less than 50 ft form the wall the depth was often over 200’ (Limits of dinghy depth finder).  Only the sounds of nature penetrated the area.  No float planes or other reminders of civilization.  GPS signals occasionally blocked by the high walls.

Our first bear sighting occurred on the morning we left.  He was eating grass at low tide.  So much for walking Keela along the beach. 

The days are getting a little shorter and occasionally stay awake long enough to catch a sunset.  Sunrise however remains elusive around 4 AM.  The lack of darkness is really messing with our sleep patterns and its been to warm to shut all the doors to the stateroom.  These are the kind of problems I like to deal with.

While on the topic of problems our water maker continues to be a source of irritation.   After replacing one of the boost pumps in Ketchikan the other pump failed.  It was recommended both pumps be replaced at the same time as they operate in parallel.  Naturally, had to take the newest pump out to get to the older one.  Fixed a nuisance leak while the system was apart and it produced the most water ever!  Right on spec at 14-15 gal/hr.   So far the controller, membrane, high pressure CLARK pump and both boost pumps have been replaced.   There are not many other moving parts to the system.  With a little luck maybe it will work for more than 2 weeks without a wrench touching it.   In fairness the watermaker was left unpickled (preserved) for too long when we bought the boat.  With the recent repairs most of the items that could be impacted have been replaced.   Time will tell.  

Next stop is Yes Bay.   The fishing resort has two important things; internet and dinner cooked by someone other than crew members.   Both are a welcome break. 

The place is beautiful and staying there along with fishing trips is almost $1000/night.   That includes float plane from Ketchikan and the guides really produced the fish.   All the gear needed including raingear, fishing tackle, boats, guides and vacuum packing the catch is included.  After seeing the number of salmon each boat returned with it was tempting to sign up.  Staff was very pleasant and helpful.  Even as just dinner guests we were treated like we belonged and constantly asked if they could make our visit better.

Anchorage was about a mile away but the lodge provided a great dinghy parking arrangement.  Just drive onto the float, it sinks with the weight of the dinghy and step out on the dry side of the dock.

The crew of Antipodes posing for the years Christmas card?

Next morning we were greeted by another bear sighting, this one much closer.  He swam out to a float just behind our boat, walked around then back to shore.  A bit unnerving to see how easily the bear transitioned from the water to the float.  The swim platform on WORKNOT would be no challenge.

BOX SCORE 7 hours 22 Gallons 48 Miles 

Our plan is to fish another few days and return to Ketchikan to catch up on internet and another round of provisions at the Safeway.     More as we head to Wrangell and continue north.....

Shoalwater Pass and Puch Bowl in the Misty Fiords National Monument 7/2/15

Tried some fishing in the area south of Ketchikan and hung out at two local anchorages hoping to catch some halibut.  The boat next to us at Bar Harbor filled a five gallon bucket with halibut steaks after sharing a few with us and some other neighbors.  No luck on halibut but did get a few rock fish and a very angry shark.  

Moving on to Shaolwater Pass we hooked up with Antipodes.  This well protected anchorage gave us a chance to resupply our crab reserves with fresh meat and enjoy the unusually warm weather.  

Punch Bowl is a very active tourist spot with float planes and tour boats coming from Ketchikan all day long.  The 3,000 ft granite face of the bowl is breathtaking and the feeling of isolation is only interrupted by the takeoff and landing of float planes during daylight hours.   At night its like being in a larger version of Lake Powell.

Several floatplanes landed for a brief look around during our stay.  They would land, turn off the engine while the passengers got out onto the floats and took pictures.  While the view from the air may be impressive much prefer the view from the water or even from the hiking trail.

A lake is located just about 1 mile from the head of Punch Bowl.  The hike to the lake is described as a "scramble".  While not that difficult it would be nearly impossible if not for the boardwalks and other trail improvements laid down over the years.   As you will see below the hike is worth it.

Waterfall about half way up to the lake.

Resting for the trip back down the "scramble" path.

 The unobstructed view

 NO BOX SCORE TODAY:   This trip involved several short stops, some fishing and overnights at local coves to accommodate getting to the fishing grounds early in the morning so the usual Box Score does not make much sense.  We have traveled about 50 miles in 4 days overall.

Ketchikan and Revillagigedo Island

Ketchikan has been a bit of disappointment to us.  Most of the places we have been were different and had their own charm.  Maybe because of huge cruise ship impact we just have not warmed up to the town.  People are nice and the harbor is a mix of commercial and pleasure boats.  The downtown area is geared to the 8,000 people who arrive daily for half a day or so of shopping and tours.  At least 30 jewelry stores with a hawker out front inviting us in for that "special" deal.  No great local restaurants were found.  The real draw to the area is the Misty Fjords Monument park and the incredible fishing and scenery nearby.

We will be happy to return and perhaps Ketchikan will grow on us but its just too much of tourist town compared to the many other places we have visited.

Below is a chart view of Revillagigedo Island and some of the places we will stop on our circumnavigation.  Almost all of these places are inaccessible by car including Ketchikan. (about 40 miles of road that is not connected to any other cities)

The population of Ketchikan is about 8,000 people and some days the cruise ships bring almost 10,000 people to visit.  Boat trips, dozens of floatplanes and helicopters all rush to the pier to grab their customers for half a day.

Maybe I have it wrong, it could be the happiest place on earth about the Disney ship.

This is one of the tour boats that stood out from the crowd of raw aluminum charter boats.  She is "turned out rather well".

The tourist area in full swing on a 4 cruise ship day.  This is salmon row.  Ketchikan process more canned salmon that the rest of the Southeast Alaska canneries combined.   Sadly its mostly T shirt shops and jewelry stores. 

Another unique item: the airport is across the water from the city.  A ferry is needed to get to anywhere other than the airport property. 

The shopping is done and its time to head out.  On our way south we caught up with our friends on Antipodes.  A San Diego based boat we cruised with in Mexico on the FUBAR in 2013/2014.  We have been crossing paths all way from San Francisco and plan to buddy boat with them from here north.

She is a steel hulled Yachtsmith International powered by the same engine as WORKNOT.  Traveling with them is like having a spare parts locker next door.   Randy, Nancy and Adam their son along with 2 huge cats are on a 3 year cruise from Mexico to Alaska.

Prince Rupert, Foggy Bay and back in the USA! (Ketchikan Alaska) 6/25-6/27/2015

Prince Rupert is the next stop.  The Prince Rupert Rowing and Yacht Club was full so we anchored in Pillsbury Cove about 2.5 miles from the town.   Easy dinghy ride except for the rain.  PR is a fair sized city with train and ferry service to Vancouver.  There is a commercial dock for freighters and its the last major stop heading north before entering US waters in Alaska.  We had a few packages delivered to the yacht club and enjoyed a nice few days of sunshine with occasional rain.

 

Only one other boat in the anchorage with us.

Several trips to the shore were made to explore, provision and get some much needed exercise.  In addition to the normal food and miscellaneous stuff we always seem to need in port two car sized batteries used to augment the host motors on the mast we use for launching the dinghy gave out.  They are located in the stack and suffer a hard life of frequent heat exposure from the engine room/exhaust and very intermittent use.  Cleverly I went to Walmart, about a mile from the yacht club dinghy dock only to find out they had only a few automotive batteries and none of the size required.  Dragging my two old cores with me found a NAPA store within 200 yards of the yacht club dock with the correct batteries.    I got my exercise for that day.  Lesson learned, more calling around and less running off to the first place that comes to mind. 

Taken from about half way to Walmart (Yacht Club docks visable) 

The area we visited is known as Cow Bay.   Everything is somehow related to cows from the coffee shop to the ice cream store.   Every imaginable nick-knack that could contain a cow theme is available from cream pitchers to cow tongue back scratchers.....


















We will return here to clear back into Canada from Alaska.  Before departing for Ketchikan we called US Customs and Border Patrol to arrange an overnight anchor approval for Foggy Bay.  This gives us extra time to transit the Dixon Entrance and arrive in Ketchikan the following day during normal business hours.   Vessels are not allowed to go anywhere else before clearing US Customs in Ketchikan and only the Captain can exit the boat before clearing in.  We followed the rules and were visited by a very friendly US agent who cleared us in less than an hour at the dock.  He even asked on the phone if we had a pet in need of a shore visit.  Since Keela does not require real grass for relief the agent visited another yacht in need of dog relief before coming to inspect WORKNOT.  With the quarantine flag struck we are off to see Alaska!

Box Score  PR to Foggy Bay 6 hours 24 Gallons 34 Miles/Foggy Bay to Ketchikan 5 hours 18 gallons 33 miles

Port Hartley 6-20-15 to Baker Inlet

Our journey is moving into less and less populated areas and the scenery remains outstanding.  A quiet anchorage behind Promise Island.

We had been off line for a few days so went around the corner to Hartley Bay, a native community reported to have cell and net service.  The small harbor was well kept and very protected.  Full coverage on cell and 4G internet.   It was a Sunday so the community was very quiet but we took a walk around and found lots of new houses under construction.

 The entire town is built over a peat bog and the roads are all in the form of boardwalks.  Houses are built on pilings.   Many of the new homes are replacements for older homes overwhelmed by mold.

Heading into Greenville Channel on a flood tide we enjoyed about 1 to 2 kts of push most of the way to Baker Inlet.   Winds picked up in the afternoon and Greenville Channel can get rough when the wind and the tide oppose each other.   Just as the wind came up the tide changed to ebb and ran with the wind.  

The route is a major path to Alaska and commercial traffic makes use of this protected inside passage.  This is one of BC's low wake ferries.  She was making about 18 kts with very little disturbance.

Entering Baker Inlet requires faith in charts and a call on VHF to warn any outbound vessels of your approach to the blind corner surrounded by trees. Once inside the lagoon opens up and plenty of room to anchor with only one other boat that evening.  

We are getting better at rainy operations, well everyone but Keela.

Box Score 7 hours   24 gallons 52 miles  

Culpepper Lagoon 6/17-6/20/2015

Culpepper Lagoon       6/17-6/20/15     

Continuing north Culpepper Lagoon is a “NOT TO MISS” according to the guide books and Active Captain recommendations.    This arm is surrounded by vertical peaks near 3000 ft tall, covered in tress growing at impossible angles.  Waterfalls along with shear rock walls too numerous to count.  The lagoon is located at the head of Kynoch Inlet.  All part of the Fjordland Recreational Reserve. 

Words won’t do justice to the scenery and the solitude.  We arrived to find Indigo, a fellow trawler traveler on a Selene 48 anchored.   Last saw them at Tribune Bay.   They reported good crabbing and we found the same.  Caught about a dozen over the next two days, several large enough for a meal each.   No luck on Salmon yet but will keep trying.

 It rained, sunshine, rained, sunshine several times each day.  Often just a drizzle but then a steady stream for half an hour or so.   Very little wind so it was comfortable to be in the rain with good raingear. 

The lagoon is separated from the inlet by a narrow area that can have currents as high as 12 kts.  We entered an hour before low water slack in the dinghy on an estimated 4 kts.  A few small whirlpools and lots of turbulence.  The entrance narrows to about 60’ wide and many take larger boats inside.  I’m to conservative to risk it.  The area is so remote we have heard no radio traffic since we got here and often loose GPS due to the steepness of the surrounding peaks.   Exiting the same area 45 minutes later it was as still as a mill pond.   We met a Canadian Coast Guard small boat dispatched from a larger (100 ft) patrol boat.   Friendly as ever the Guardsmen wished us well and inquired on the crabbing status. 

Just don’t have the writing skills to do justice to the scenery so will let these pictures tell the story.  

Mary and Keela found a good way to stay warm on the dinghy ride.

BOX SCORE 7 Hours 21 Gallons 53 Miles